7th - 11th October. On down the Canal du Nivernais from the summit to Châtillon-en-Bazois, then on to Cercy-de-la-Tour.

Yesterday, Madam éclusier had told us that there was no bakery at Bazolles. This morning she met us at the first lock with two baguettes, even though it was not her lock. What a service! Locks 4-5-6 are a set of 3rise locks at Chavance, and today we have Monsieur éclusier looking after us.

This wide cill is under the bridge, in the top lock. There is no sign at the lock as warning of this, though presumably our éclusier was keeping an eye, that The Puzzler did not sit on the cill.

This lockkeeper was with us for nine locks altogether, including the 3rise and two double locks, presumably because it is late in the season. Normally it is less than that. Eventually we reached his own house, an attractive smallholding, with goats too among his livestock, near to Orgue lock.

We travelled on to Châtillon-en-Bazois, where we moored near to the Chateau, which is built inside a meander of the river Aron. The Nivernais Canal follows this river from the summit down to the river Loire at Decize, a distance of 66 kilometres. The gardens of the Chateau are very formal, with water features among the hedges.

Sadly, the Chateau itself is completely shrouded by scaffolding, but it is still quite imposing.

Some locks are surrounded with flowers, like lock 17 at Eguilly. A lot of work goes into these gardens, by the lockkeeper who lives there.

Our lockkeeper breaks for lunch from 12 until 1.00, but he had left lock 19 at Villard ready for us, so that we could wait in the lock.

The wall of the small building by the lock was a basking place for little lizards.

At Brienne lock we liked the small neat cottage with blue shutters.

Moving on, the trees beside the canal are still very green, despite the autumn feel to the air.

This heron was not upset at all when we passed quite close to him, as he stood serenely on a branch beside the canal.

Mooring below Bernay lock, we went lizard spotting again. Here they were much bigger, but our film star had lost part of his tail at some time. Despite this, he looked very healthy.

Approaching Cercy-de-la-tour, the 12th century Roman church towers over the houses. The blue narrowboat is also heading for Roanne for the winter.

Walking up from the canal, we can see the 13th century tower, to which Cercy-de-la-Tour owes its name. The original tower was destroyed during the French Revolution in 1795, but was rebuilt in 1883 by the Marquis of Pomereau. It could not be exactly as it was, due to houses which were in the way! However, it is still very imposing.

This statue of Notre Dame was built in 2008 to replace the original one which had been built in 1958, on top of the tower, to overlook the town.

The narrow streets of Cercy lead us up to the tower and the church. Sadly, Debbie and Matt are leaving us tomorrow, to return to England.

Never mind being too shy for us to see him out in the country, this kingfisher is sitting beside The Puzzler on the railing on our jetty in Cercy.

Meanwhile, Shannon is looking after Toad Rawnsley, who is wearing his new England Rugby top. He is a very important visitor, who has his own facebook page, having travelled all over the world!

1st - 6th October. Debbie and Matt join us at Mailly-la-Ville. On to the cliffs of Roches Saussois, the town of Clamecy, then a flight of 16 locks, followed by three tunnels across the summit level.

Debbie and Matt joined us at Mailly-la-Ville, where the ducks were very enthusiastic about stale brioche!

The next morning we reached Roches Saussois, the tallest cliffs on the Canal du Nivernais.

Debbie, Matt, Andy and Shannon climbed to the top for a fantastic view over to the village of Merry-sur-Yonne, on the other side of the river Yonne.

Even coming down was quite tricky, as it was so steep.

Did we really climb up there?


Yes, we did!

The locks are manual on the Canal du Nivernais, with éclusiers who work them for us. We are allowed to help with the gates though, so Matt is in action here.

Moving on to Clamecy, another town which climbs the hillside beside the river.

The collegiate church of St Martin de Clamecy has wonderful stonework.

Inside it is just as impressive.

Debbie and Andy are in step, as they walk down the steep streets of Clamecy.

Moving on, Debbie is activating the next lift bridge. She must hold the button in all the time, to keep the bridge moving.

We are still tending to moor out in the country. Our éclusier calls this type of mooring “au nature”, which is quite descriptive.

Chitry-les-Mines is named for the silver lodes which used to be worked here in the Renaissance time. Sadly the Chateau has closed for the winter, but we saw the childhood home of Jules Renard, a famous French author, of the late nineteenth/ early twentieth century.

After another double lock at Eugny, there is a kilometre of one way traffic on the canal. It is fairly narrow and we found that, away from the middle, it is quite shallow, but we only touched the bottom once!

Charolais cattle crossing ahead!

On Tuesday morning we went up the last flight of 16 locks, in the rain. We had two lockkeepers who also wanted to get out of the rain so, by using only one gate each time, we completed 16 locks and 4 kilometres in 2 hours and 5 minutes, which has to be a record. As this was our only flight of locks, and our only serious rain of the week, it seemed a shame that they came together!
After lunch the weather cleared and we continued along the summit level. Any boater from England will liken this to the long cutting on the Shroppie, with a similar high bridge.

There are three tunnels next, with this brick lined cutting between the first two, which are 212 and 268 metres long.

The third tunnel is much longer, at 758 metres, but none of these tunnels have lights, as other French tunnels have done.

It is good to see the trees and daylight again at the other end.

We moored near to Bazolles, another attractive village set up on the hillside.

28th - 30th September,2015. On to Auxerre, then we join the Canal du Nivernais to sail on to the Cave at Bailly, where sparkling wine is made.

The next main town up the river Yonne is Auxerre, where the cathedral is also called St Etienne. This can be seen from afar, surrounded by other churches.

This is the main entrance of the cathedral.

These fantastic carvings are over the doorway. There is such detail in them.

This cathedral was built between the 13th and 16th centuries. Joan of Arc stopped here to pray in 1429 and St. Patrick of Ireland was trained in Auxerre by St. Germain. This is the highest roof which we have seen in any of the cathedrals which we have visited.

Walking through the town of Auxerre is a real step back in history, with wooden wall sections and tiles too, decorating the house fronts.

This 15th century clock tower has a double dial, showing the movements of the sun and the moon during the day on one side, and the hours on the other.

From Auxerre we sailed on to join the Canal du Nivernais, which is really a continuation of the river Yonne to start with, with canal sections.

Once again we can see vineyards on the hillsides.

At Bailly we went to the Cave of Bailly Lapierre, which is a wine cellar inside the hillside, so it really is a cave! This was once an underground quarry, from which came the stones for many great cathedrals, including Auxerre.

We did the guided tour, which was very interesting, and was good for our French! There are 5 million bottles in these caves, all at different stages of maturity.

From 1993 Caves Bailly Lapierre held an annual sculpture exhibition, for ten years, with visitors voting to decide the winner, who was then invited to produce a work carved directly into the rock. This one is The Riverboat, which represents a boat which plied between Auxerre and Paris.

The view over the river Yonne from just outside the cave was worth the climb to get up there!

The small village of Bailly, down by the river, is very quaint. There was an art exhibition in the chapel, of pictures painted by Hosotte. He has done some lovely scenes in oils, but sadly photography was forbidden.